Seeking Ravana in Mandore

It’s September and here in Mandore, the Sun seems to be in a vindictive mood as I traverse through its heated dusty roads. However, at places, the road looks like it’s drenched in water but the dancing hot air above it reminds me that’s what mirages are made of. On my way back to Jodhpur from Osian, I make a stop at Mandore. But I am not here to see the famous and intricate Mandore Gardens. I am here to seek Ravana and his connection with Mandore, the ancient capital of the Marwar Kingdom.

Beautiful Rajasthan

So who is Ravana and what’s his relationship with Mandore?

According to the Hindu epic Ramayana Ravana was a learned scholar, master of astrology, a devout devotee of Lord Shiva, an efficient ruler and excelled at playing the musical instrument Veena. Ravana kidnapped Sita, the wife of Lord Ram to seek vengeance from him and his brother Lakshman. Apparently, Lord Rama and his brother had chopped off Ravana’s sister Shurpanakha’s nose and ears for having professed her love for Rama. This further led to the battle of Lanka wherein Ravana was defeated and killed by Lord Ram.

Till date, Ravana’s effigies are burnt to commemorate the triumph of good over evil during the Dushera festival all over India.

Want to visit Jodhpur? Here’s a detailed city guide for you. Read more about the blue city.

Ravana may have kidnapped Sita but never hurt her modesty. I believe labelling Ravana as a villain varies with one’s perception of Ramayana. A brother miffed at two strangers for having disfigured his sister’s face retaliates by kidnapping the wife to teach him a lesson. Sounds quite legit! However, Lord Ram defeated the demon king and rescued his estranged wife only to later abandon her at the words of a washerman who suggested that he shouldn’t trust her chastity after having spent significant time at Ravana’s Kingdom as a hostage. I wonder what still makes Lord Rama an ideal man or Purshottam as per Hindu mythology. Ravana, on the other hand, has always intrigued me.

So here I am in Mandore trying to figure out how is Ravana connected to this laidback town. Mandore is beautiful like any other Rajasthani town, houses made of sandstone, intricate artwork that decorate the entrances to these houses and men and women dressed in absolutely vibrant colours hold the same rustic yet charming demeanour as the rest of Rajasthan.

On the way to Mandore.

It’s late in the afternoon and I am on the streets asking the people of Mandore about Ravana. Some odd glances and non-affirmative nods and then luckily I find a person who is eager to help. He says in his local dialect, which I am struggling to understand, that Ravana is the son-in-law of Mandore. Then he gives me the direction to reach Ravan ki Chanwari. Chanwari is essentially a raised pavilion or Mandap. Ravan ki Chanwari is apparently where Ravana entered into holy matrimony with his wife Mandodari.

After getting lost a bit in the sleepy alleys of Mandore, finally, the Chanwari is right before my eyes. I look around for someone or something to help me quench my curiosity about the developments of his marriage in this town but unfortunately, it’s the hottest hours of the day and I find no one.

The flight of stairs leading up to the Chanwari

As I climb up the stairs to reach the Chanwari, I come across this small hut with people in it. This is Bhagirath Ji’s abode and unfortunately, he is not home. Bhagirath Ji appeared on an Indian news channel where he talked about the legends of Ravana’s wedding. I suppose he must be a treasure trove of knowledge but hard luck.

Bhagirath Ji’s family.

I ask his family members about the place and its association with Ravana. To which they nod and point towards the Chanwari and say, “That is where Ravana exchanged garlands with Mandodari and that is where he took the seven holy vows around the fire.”

The Chanwari stands in ruins today. Clearly neglected by authorities, there is also no signage either that may provide adequate information about its significance in terms of Hindu Mythology. There are two such pavilions located near each other. The Chanwari where they took the seven holy vows of marriage has carvings of Lord Ganesha and Seven Mother Goddesses or the Sapta Matrika. The Chanwari where they performed Jaimala seems to have a rock carving of Tokeshwara Maharaj. Sadly, I don’t find any other information about this place.

One signage

The stone carvings of Lord Ganesha and the seven mother Goddesses or Sapta Matrika

The Ravan ki Chanwari

Mandodari was Mandore’s princess and the daughter of Mayasura and his consort Hema. She later married Ravana and became the queen of Lanka. Apparently, Mandore derives its name from the name of Mandodari.  The residents of Mandore specifically the Mudgil and Dave Brahmins consider themselves as the descendants of Ravana. They had either migrated to the town post Ravana’s death or during his marriage with Mandodari.

The Chanwari where the Jaimala took place.

The rock-cut carving of Tokeshwara Maharaj

Therefore, in this part of the country, people love and worship Ravana. To Mandore he will always remain their beloved son-in-law. His descendants, the Mudgil and Dave Brahmins also perform a Shraddh ceremony, a Hindu ritual essentially performed after the death of a person post-Dusherra every year to pay their tribute to Ravana.

• How to reach Mandore?

Mandore is located at a distance of 9km from the city of Jodhpur on the way to Osian or Bikaner. Locate the Mandore railway station first then seek some help from the locals to lead you to the Ravan ki Chanwari. Some also call it Ravan ki Chhatri. The nearest railway station is Jodhpur, however, Mandore also has its own railway station. The nearest airport is Jodhpur and by road, Mandore is just at a distance of 9km from Jodhpur.

Ravana intrigues my imagination despite being a character with the various shades of negativity. I leave halfheartedly from Mandore only to come back someday later to unearth a little more about this legendary wedding. Parting ways with this sleepy town, I am glad I could see the Ravan ki Chanwari. I only hope this monument receives more attention and the authorities preserve it a little better. Despite being a Protected Monument today it stands in despair and largely ignored.